I love crescent shaped shawls.
Sometimes I made my own crescents by putting together a nice lace edge and a section of short rows to shape the crescent. Like
here with
Laminaria and
here with
Echo Flower (
Estonian lace and its nupps) But they ALWAYS curl.
Yes, I know stockinette curls like crazy without a proper edge. But I try. And experiment, and try again.
This time I've knitted the stockinette section 4 times, and now it doesn't curl. In fact it isn't proper stockinette anymore.
After trial number 2 I was quite desperate and asked for help, Where, to whom? At the Ravelry Forums of course, where you can find a treasure trove of knitting knowledge and very nice people who will share it with you! I love Ravelry. Best online community in the whole world.
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhAPwyM5u15PLJOKw2e4_UPx3hV_i4PX46C2_7gCFdlucpCTku8y821ZQL24hDCcynK4hUv70aof-YUXwtnTDBXTlusuJwu2tzhJWidwwoX7PkePhNrMZrrlEWx3o-ZctjmG5DbkqcoBs/s640/DSC_3672%257E2.jpg) |
trial num 3
eyelet and icord bind off |
What they told me -
1 - a bigger needle helps
2 - stockinette will always curl BUT if you "break" it with some nice purl columns here and there... it will curl a lot less
3 - an i-cord bind-off is a brilliant way to finish a shawl.
So, with all this new knowledge I tried it again, while trial num 3 was an improvement there was still a lot of frakking curling going on BUT trial number 4 was a success!!!
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGMOcU814RMAxP5aWGnftovcapCcGY3tTne_kfeJyD6Zn-Ywekye0dpfcwy3ChYtH0NtW6mxE7V6kqS3QmryJ0zgFchMs-6k9NFdOo-OttqschpcVB_hwVVx3GrwnNEYeMFNpbLPHuAec/s640/IMG_20160904_182323.jpg) |
trial num 4 before blocking |
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnsFGrJPzwtp7YRC14cZtP6cjieEfmZAUXoRNGAnPUcz7VkAeroeqmcObZ7kONLoXAgjzCkGM1SpK-Q7UKOUc-bhzYUkBUPWit72dY9frwb-45tgAlsK2aiPBcvVYPpy3jnN4D-qgRq1g/s640/IMG_20160904_193300.jpg) |
trial num 4 while blocking |
And here you have my RECIPE and some awful drawings.
- 1 . Find a lace edge stitch or a lace triangular shawl of your liking (edge) better if in chart form, in my opinion
- 2 . Find a nice yarn and some needles (bigger than the ones the yarn asks for because, lace)
- 3 . Make a swatch of one repetition of the motive you like with the needles you are going to use
- 3 . Block it
- 4 . Measure it
- 5 . Decide the length of your shawl and calculate how many repetitions you need and thus the number of stitches to cast-on
- 6 . make a provisional cast-on (my favourite is the provisional crochet cast-on)
-
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzedSx5LkY2TkWDU0WbXzaydZ7ERV6OYAVgEZsIDQ5gallnytl7MPA5oggxSzodnP7BnSZFYglNo3DIzslurKew6Zj5ZsNNRB0wzOOUSu-v1Sg8LhyphenhyphenJ2BcH8N4WCEOld5Ue6x453nh_Bo/s320/DSC_3692%257E2.jpg)
- 7 . knit your lace and bind-off
- 8 . undo the prov. CO
- 9 . start the short rows/eyelets section *in detail below*
- 10 . Make an I-cord bind-off to end the project
SHORT ROWS/EYELET SECTION
In order to achieve my goals of 1 - make a crescent and 2 - avoid curling I have combined some short rows with a pattern of eyelets and purl columns.
Even though the two things must be done at the same time, I'm going to explain them separately.
short rows
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgduJ0_SI0YoU9eMvpOg9haSvrMn4eGc-L5KSb5O6Kl0pxGbV3rLL2VEprnYMhc0mySQAwZZnTuQgM9qNU3iKo3gaBoqDYDXta1O1MVRUWZRIcbQUQ9SUg6akrLCp1TtZCF4F3D1cp-VL4/s320/DSC_3691%257E2.jpg)
first of all you have to decide between a narrow or a wide shawl.
If you want a narrow shawl you need less short rows and the number of stitches added to each short row, Z, shall be bigger.
If you want a wider shawl, you need more short rows and the number of stitches added to each short row , Z, shall be smaller.
Then you have to decide how "pointy" you want your shawl to be. If you want it quite pointy your Y number should be a small one, if you want it less pointy Y should be bigger.
- X = number of stitches / 2
- Y = central number of stitches you want to start your short rows from = number of stitches second row
- Z = number of stitches you want to add to each row
- K = knit
- P = purl
- T = turn
- SSK, slip slip knit
- P2TOG purl 2 stitches together
then you follow this:
- RS K X+Y/2, T
- WS P Y, T
- RS K until one stitch remains before turning point SSK, K Z, T
- WS P until one stitch remains before turning point P2TOG, P Z, T
repeat 3 and 4 until all stitches are worked
eyelets
what I did
- place a marker at each repeat of the lace pattern
- start short rows
- when a marked stitch has 5 rows over it , K2TOG, YO (make an eyelet) over that stitch and purl (RS) knit (WS) it from this moment onward - FIRST ROW OF EYELETS
- when 2 consecutive eyelets have 8 purl rows over them, make a new eyelet in the middle, and the purl column that goes with it too - SECOND ROW OF EYELETS
maybe you'll need more rows of eyelets, I had enough with that
beware! the number of stitches between eyelets will change once they are over the short rows decreases
I hope some of this makes sense, I really do.